Hanging dyeing can create a soft, gradual and harmonious visual effect on fabrics and clothing from light to deep or from deep to light, with a simple, elegant, and indifferent aesthetic taste. In the past two years, with the application and release of hanging dyeing technology by famous Italian brands and fashion design masters such as PARADAFENDI in high-end fashion, this hazy and gradual special anti dyeing technique has become an indispensable “artistic dyeing and finishing” language in modern clothing and home textile design.

Principle and characteristics of suspension dyeing process

As a popular special anti dyeing technique in the market, hanging dyeing can create a gradual, soft, and peaceful visual effect from light to deep or from deep to light for fabrics and clothing. Combined with processes such as flocking, fabric printing, and computer embroidery, it conveys a simple, elegant, and indifferent aesthetic taste.

Suspension dyeing technology is commonly used for dyeing high-end fabrics such as pure cotton and silk, as well as finished garments. It uses environmentally friendly reactive dyes and acidic dyes and is completed in special suspension dyeing equipment. When dyeing, according to the design requirements of the fabric or clothing, only one end of the fabric or clothing is allowed to come into contact with the dye solution. The absorption of dye mainly relies on the capillary effect, and the dye solution that rises with the capillary effect is adsorbed onto the fibers. Due to the preferential adsorption of dye, the remaining dye in the dye solution decreases as it moves upwards, resulting in a gradual transition from deep to shallow dyeing effect. In hanging dyeing, it is important to swing the suspended dye up and down during the dyeing process to maximize the amount of color applied. The coloring principle is the same as general dyeing, but there is a significant difference in processing methods.

This process is widely used in ready to wear and fixed length fabrics, and is closely integrated with downstream fashion products such as craft clothing and artist textiles. It can keep up with fashion trends and respond quickly to the market according to the special customization needs of brand designers and international buyers. Due to the complexity and limited production capacity of the hanging dyeing process, which needs to be completed in a special dyeing machine, the added value of the hanging dyeing process for fabrics and clothing is relatively high. In recent years, hanging dyeing technology has become an indispensable dyeing and finishing method in clothing and home textile design, and is one of the main language of “artistic dyeing and finishing”. Hanging dyeing technology is more widely used in the deep processing of various high-end natural fabrics such as combed cotton and silk, as well as new modified polyester fabrics.

The use of hanging dyeing technology to create new visual creativity for domestic fabrics and craft clothing, especially based on market trends, combined with downstream end brand fashion design and home textile product design to develop customized fabrics for target markets, is the development direction of the high-end route of fabric reconstruction. Jiangsu Huayi Clothing Co., Ltd. produces and exports tie dyed kimono fabrics to Japan, as well as fashionable women’s clothing made by Marks&Spencer in the UK. Nantong Hengyuan Printing and Dyeing Co., Ltd. exports knitted T-shirts and machine woven high-end sweaters through hanging dyeing processing, all of which have entered the high-end textile and clothing market and achieved good economic benefits. With the trend of “pan craftsmanship” in the international textile and clothing market, the use of hanging dyeing technology to integrate and graft new pigment printing processes, electrostatic flocking processes, computer embroidery processes, and hollow computer embroidery bead processes has formed a multi process flexible combination with color gradient as the background, modern printing and dyeing, computer embroidery and other process patterns embellishing it, extending the process value chain and meeting the needs of the European high-end craft clothing market, It has high process added value and good market prospects.

In addition, to adapt to the visual form of color gradient popular in the mainstream clothing market in Europe in recent years, the application of transfer printing technology to develop differentiated processes for new modified polyester fabrics (various simulated silk fabrics) is also a highlight of innovative fabric “hanging dyeing” technology. Closely integrated with the design and market development of downstream craft brand clothing and home textile products, various new modified polyester fabrics such as Qiaoqi, Chiffon, polyester and linen are selected, and transfer printing technology is used for horizontal imitation “hanging dyeing” to form a new visual effect of fabric color gradient, enriching the variety of domestic fabrics.

Suspension dyeing process flow

The process of hanging dyeing is as follows: design of the rendering → clamping → hanging → dyeing → washing → post-treatment → drying → inspection → packaging. Figure 2 shows the finished garment dyed by hanging, with gradient colors.

The method of hanging dyeing can also produce artistic dyeing with a “segment dyeing” color effect, forming the artistic characteristics of monochrome, multi-color, free combination, and having a special edge texture of “incomplete beauty”. Figure 3 shows the “segment dyeing” style of women’s shirts.

Figure 2: Hanging dyeing with color gradient Figure 3: Women’s shirts with “segment dyeing” style

For example, dyeing a tank top short skirt with bright light green on top, white in the middle, and dark green at the bottom, the fabric can be 1+1 ribbed or sweaty.

Preparation before dyeing: Roll up the clothes about 2cm below the sleeve pocket with leather and tie them tightly with plastic rope.

dyeing prescription (o.w.f.)

Light green:

SKYZOL YELLOW 4GL  0.8%

SKYZOL YELLOW RNL  0.2%

SKYZOL BLUE KNR    0.33%

Deep Green:

SKYZOL RED F3B     0.18%

SKYZOL BLACK B     0.6%

SKYZOL YELLOW RNL  1.5%

First, place the entire garment in the prepared dye solution and dye it light green. The equipment can be used as a garment dyeing machine. Dye with dye and sodium hydroxide for 15-20 minutes at 60 ℃, then treat with trisodium phosphate and water for 20-30 minutes. Then, dye the lower part of the garment in dark green on a hanging dyeing machine, keeping it in a dynamic state with the dyeing solution to prevent dyeing. Then perform sufficient washing and soap boiling to improve dyeing fastness.

 

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